An Oakland Pitmaster Reignites Barbecue Culture, Eater SF, 2018
Matt Horn is ambitious but humble, with a Zen-like aura. The public is lucky to have only had to face Horn, who also has a competitive side, at his popups in Oakland, rather than on the football field. He grew up in Fresno before he went off to play college football, as a wide receiver, in Los Angeles, with NFL hopes in his future. When that dream didn’t work as planned, he started catering barbecue as a means to provide for his family — and soon realized he had found his calling.
That calling is barbecue that’s Central Texas meets Central California in style: tender brisket smoked over California oak. And it’s a time-consuming calling: Horn tends the fire of his offset smoker all through the night, shifting between sleeping at the site and shoveling fuel into the smoker. It’s slow and tedious. “I could just put the meat in an oven and walk away for the night, but that wouldn’t give me the results I’d be happy with,” says Horn.
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