Pumpkin fritters, barrigas de vieja, warm autumn’s chill, SF Chronicle, 2018

The smell of autumn is a smell that seems to appear overnight when you least expect it. You wake up one morning to a chill and the smell of loamy earth, and you pull your oversize blanket from the closet’s clutches and put it in its rightful place upon your bed. The air’s cryogenic tinge starts to seep through your windows when you let the soft pink light in...

These fritters are weighty, but eat light. Your teeth sink into the starchy soft center encased in a crispy shell and their perfumed flavor wafts into your nose. They’re sweet, savory, and the sprinkling of salt only seems to heighten those flavors.

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