Boriqua Kitchen, Eater 2019

Puerto Ricans are often called Boricuas, a term that derives from the original Taino name for the island; Borinquen, “Land of the Valiant Lord.” Watching Lamboy both serve and finesse a long line of customers on his own is valiant. His hands are colossal, his stature is more boxer-esque than cook, his smile is gentle. But there’s no mistaking him for anything else than a Puerto Rican. He has la mancha de la platano, a phrase Puerto Ricans use when we spot other Puerto Ricans.

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